How to repair a damaged skin barrier?

Skin barrier is our body’s first line of defence from the environment. It consist of skin cells, skin lipids as well as microbiome. Healthy epidermal barrier is crucial for proper functioning of the skin. Moreover, a damaged skin barrier may contribute to the development of skin diseases such as acne, rosacea or atopic dermatitis. How to repair a damaged skin barrier? What ingredients you should choose and avoid in your skincare? Below I will go throught everything you should now.

 

Symptoms of damaged skin barrier

Skin with impaired barrier is more prone to negative effects of the environment as well as invasion of microorganism and allergens which penetrate the skin more easily. This appear as redness, irritation or even inflammation. Compromised epidermal barrier is also a subject to excess transepidermal water loss and dehydration. Lack of water can lead to inappropriate regeneration and exfoliation which manifest as dull and flaky skin. Dehydrated skin starts to secrete excess sebum, trying to eliminate water evaporation. Unfortunately this situation usually leads to formation of clogged pores or even breakouts giving an impression of oily skin. Using products recommended for oily skin will only aggravate the problem and lead to even worse dehydration. It’s like a never-ending cycle.

 

 

How to repair a damaged skin barrier?

To restore a healthy skin barrier it’s essential to change your skin care habits and switch to a simple and effective routine. When looking for proper beauty products it’s important to focus on active ingredients which help repair damaged skin barrier and increase hydration. Here are some of the must have ingredients grouped in four categories for your new cosmetics range:

 

Ingredients which replenish skin lipids

• Ceramides are natural skin surface lipids which protect form excess water evaporation as well as microbes. Ceramides are listed on beauty products as: INCI Ceramide AP, Ceramide NG, Ceramide NS, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Sphingosine, Phytosphingosine.
• Cholesterol makes up 25% of skin lipids as well as being a component of sebum. INCI Cholesterol.
• Essential Fatty Acids – omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. They occur in higher or lower concentrations in natural plant oils. To restore skin barrier I highly recommend products with linoleic acid, which you can find in:

 

Humectants to retain water

• Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which naturally occur in dermis. It has ability to hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water. INCI: Hyaluronic Acid , Sodium Hyaluronate
• Urea as a natural component of Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) plays an important role in moisture regulation. In low concentrations (below 10%) urea attracts water molecules from the surrounding environment and provide hydration. INCI: Urea
• Glycerin is considered to be the most effective humectant. It is a polyol with ability to bind and retain water. As a result the skin surface is softer and smoother. INCI: Glycerin
• D-Panthenol is the pro-vitamin of vitamin B5, which significantly improves the skin moisture content. Additionally D–panthenol accelerate healing and calm down inflammation. INCI: Panthenol

 

Ingredients which restore damaged skin barrier

• Hydroxyacids (AHAs and PHAs) used in low concentrations can gently exfoliate dead skin cells, enhance barrier function and increase ceramide levels. They also provide a skin condition benefits by stimulating skin renewal and balancing the PH on the surface of the skin. Hydroxyacids recommended for skin with impaired skin barrier are lactic acid and lactobionic acid.
• Niacynamide is an active form of vitamin B3. Using products with only 2 % niacynamide can restore skin barrier by boosting ceramides and essential fatty acids production. Effects – smooth and hydrated skin.

 

Occlusive agents

• Natural plant oils improve hydration not only by replenish skin lipids but also by occluding the skin. They create a waterproof protecting coat which decreases water loss. Natural plant oils can be used as pure oils or oil-based moisturisers.
• Fatty Alcohols are emollients that soften and smoothen the epidermis. They form a light occlusive layer protecting from water evaporation. On product labels fatty alcohols are listed as Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isocetyl Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Mirystyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol.

To repair damaged skin barrier and moisture the skin use products which contain at least one ingredient from each category. Products which contain this ingredients are moisturisers, serums, toners and plant oils.

 

Triggers which damage the skin barrier

The most important part of the skincare is to avoid all activities and ingredients which can damage the skin barrier.

1. Harsh detergents

Ingredients like SLS (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) and SLES (INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulphate) are surfactants commonly used as a cleansing agents in skincare products. Unfortunately they can disturb the skin lipids composition resulting in weakening of the skin barrier function. Therefore, choose cleansing gels or oils which contain gentle surfactants. These are for example Cocoamidopropyl betaine, Lauryl Glucoside, Coco glucoside.

2. Over-exfoliation

3. Too much active ingredients

We are aware of active ingredients and their benefits for the skin. I also noticed that layering the skincare actives becomes more and more popular these days. However too much actives using simultaneously can over-work the skin and compromise the skin barrier leading to dehydration and irritation.

4. UV radiation

The formation of free radicals as a result of sun exposure have a negative impact on skin barrier. Free radicals damage protein and lipid structures of the skin leading to increased water loss and skin dryness.

 

Skin barrier restoration should be priority in skincare routine. If you feel that your skin barrier is compromised start from a basic skincare rich in emollients, humectants ceramides. At this point avoid actives like retinol, high concentration of vitamin C and chemical peels. As the skin barrier is rebuilt and skin has a proper level of hydration you can pass on to treat other skin problems.

If you are concerned about your skin condition or struggle to find the right products do not hesitate to contact me and book your online skincare consultation.

I look forward to helping you.

be Skin Aware

Paulina