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Oily skin with blackheads – main causes
Is your skin oily and shiny? Have you got clogged pores in your T-zone? Do you struggle to get rid of blackheads and whiteheads? Did you try everything to reduce oiliness and nothing seems to work? Oily skin with blackheads is a very common problem for my patients . Finding an appropriate and effective routine can be difficult. Focusing on eliminating symptoms only and using stronger and stronger peels or drying substances leads nowhere.
In order to effectively control skin oiliness and appearance of clogged pores we should start from determining the causes of symptoms. In this article I will explain the most common causes of oily skin with comedonal acne.
How blackheads are formed
Oily skin is a result of overactive sebaceous glands (sebocytes) which produce excess sebum. Sebaceous gland are distributed over the entire face but are concentrated around forehead, nose and chin. This area is called T-zone and is more prone to oiliness.
Excess oil secretion leads to formation of comedones – whiteheads and blackheads. These are non-inflammatory signs of acne. Comedones occur when too much sebum with dead skin cells block the hair follicle’s opening. This leads to formation of a small bumps called whiteheads. If the skin over the bumps open up the oxygen exposure causes sebum to look black. Blackheads are formed. Oily skin with comedones is a type of acne called comedonal acne. This may be the base for the development of inflammatory acne.
Causes of oily skin with blackheads
There are several internal and external triggers which contribute to excess sebum secretion:
- hormones
- unhealthy diet
- stress
Hormones
Oily skin with blackheads is a symptom of overactive sebaceous gland. Sebocytes are biologically active cells which express many receptors. Receptors can be located on the cell surface or inside the sebocyte. These receptors are able to connect with receptor ligands such as hormones or neurotransmitters initiating a cellular response. Receptor ligands which mainly affect the growth and activity of sebaceous gland are androgens.
Androgens are male sex hormones secreted by adrenal glands and gonads (ovaries and testes). The most active androgens are testosterone and DHT (dihydrotestosterone). They bind with protein receptor on sebaceous glands and stimulate sebum production. The level of androgens is usually high during puberty, therefore skin oiliness and acne is very common among teenagers. This is a physiological state. Unfortunately, nowadays more and more people aged over 25 have also problems with clogged pores, oily skin and comedonal acne. This is usually associated with some hormonal imbalances, dietary habits, unhealthy lifestyle and inappropriate skincare.
Another hormone which contributes to excess sebum secretion is progesterone. Progesterone is a hormone released by the corpus luteum during the second half of the women’s menstrual cycle. High progesterone level combined with low oestrogen level can lead to increased oil production. This situation occurs after ovulation which can explain the worsening of the skin condition shortly before menstruation.
Unhealthy diet
According to scientific evidence a diet may have a huge impact on skin oiliness and development of comedonal acne. Western diet rich in processed food, saturated fat and simple carbs is not conducive to a healthy skin. Unfortunately, nowadays this type of unhealthy diet is very common.
Processed food high in trans-fat leads to lipid imbalances and domination of triglycerides. As a result the composition of skin oil (sebum) changes. Sebum gets more sticky and thick making it difficult to excrete outside the skin. Then the excess sebum blocks the opening of the hair follicle forming clogged pores.
Simple sugars and products with high glycaemic index increase the glucose level. High level of glucose is not healthy for our body and should be balanced immediately after a meal. Therefore our pancreas secretes insulin to lower the level of glucose. Frequent consumption of simple sugars leads to increased insulin secretion. On the other hand insulin increases the production of androgens leading indirectly to excess sebum secretion and skin oiliness.
Diet rich in dairy products may also contribute to formation of comedonal acne. Protein derived from milk increase the amount of insulin and IGF – insulin-like growth factor. IGF is a growth hormone which stimulates the growth of sebocytes and production of sebum.
Stress
Scientific researches confirm that stress increases the secretion of sebum and appearance of acne lessions. Hormones secreted during a stressful situation are corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH) and cortisol. Cortisol level is regulated by the nervous system and is subject to biological clock. It’s concentration is highest in the morning and falls down in the evening allowing our organism to relax. Chronic stress keeps CRH and cortisol levels high. This has a negative impact on the functioning of the entire body as well as the skin. CRH and cortisol stimulate the growth of sebaceous gland as well as increase sebum production.
Can inappropriate skincare cause oily skin?
Sebum is a waxy, oily substance which is a part of skin lipids. Sebum secretion is very important as it builds the skin barrier. This protects the skin form excess water loss and provides an optimal level of hydration. Therefore sebum and some comedones are necessary for a proper functioning of the skin. Please do not aim to remove them at any cost.
The more you degrease or exfoliate the skin the more you damage the skin barrier and dehydrate the skin. Skin with low hydration level will start to produce more sebum to create a waterproof layer on the skin surface. This is a protective mechanism to avoid excess water evaporation from the skin. Try to avoid products with alcohol, SLSs and SLESs as well as harsh scrubs. They will strip your natural skin oils and as a result may stimulate sebum production. Do not use exfoliating tonners, serums or creams too often. Products with AHAs and BHAs are beneficial if the type of peel, its concentration and frequency of usage are appropriate for your skin condition. This also applies to products with retinol. Therefore I highly recommend a skincare consultation with an experienced aesthetician to prevent excessive skin dehydration and irritation.
Moisturising and hydration is key. Even if your skin is oily and shiny you need moisturiser on a daily basis. Excess oil doesn’t mean that your skin is hydrated. Oily skin is not the opposite of dry skin. In addition deficit of water in epidermis leads to inappropriate regeneration, excess sebum secretion and inflammation. Dehydration makes oily skin condition worse, therefore a proper hydration and replenishing of the skin barrier should be the first step to treat your oily skin.
Studies show that UV radiation intensifies oil production. Therefore, try to avoid sun exposure or wear sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.
A proper skincare for oily skin with blackheads may be a huge challenge. The first step to control the sebum secretion is to find the causes of skin concern and try to eliminate them. Inappropriate skincare can also lead to shiny, greasy skin and formation of comedones. Therefore a bespoke regimen tailored to your skin needs is crucial for healthy and glowy skin.
be Skin Aware
Paulina
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